Day 26 - no room at the albergue!

Our day started early, what else is new. But,  just on the edge of town, they have a lovely nature walk that is a lovely path which is right beside the less lovely camino path...guess which one we walked about 15 minutes down before getting worried that we hadn't seen any yellow arrows...or other people for the whole 15 minutes??? Back the way we came, and because it was still very dark out, we can't even say we enjoyed the nature walk...ahhhh well...

So back on the correct path. Not long after the sun was up, we passed the 56 km sign, and since that is our birth year...pix time!

56 km left...we look pretty happy for two gals who finally had coffee at the 62.5 km, if you are counting (but why should you) that was over 9 km before java time this morning

Last night we had decided that we wouldn't stay in Boente tonight, as that was the place everyone was mentioning. So we pushed on the extra 2.5 km to Castaneda...the map did not indicate that the last 2 km of the 2.5 was a huge CLIMB, yes - up, up, up, on very tired legs. We got to the private albergue, which was very nice looking, and "complita" - completely full. The next town... 6 more km, but, the very sweet hostelier called a little hostel that is just off the camino, and she had one room with 2 beds...and then he kept talking for quite a while...Canadian girls...was all we could make out, but his thumbs up was all the reassurance we needed. Girls...yes, girls...that's us...we are gaining a rep on the path. anyway, it then took a few minutes of Spanish, French, Italian and the occasional English word thrown into the mix to get us directions...we had to walk 1.5 km...there is a little sign that says Casa Milia, look for it at the 41.5 km camino marker...turn right, si si, right...and it is una, dos Casa on the left, si si the left side.

Gotta tell you, this stunning Casa has only 4 rooms, we got the only one on the main floor, Mamma is making supper for us tonight and welcomed us with..."ah las Canadesse!"  This place is worth a few pix...

Just a beautiful Casa with a great yard

Our room...one of the roomier rooms we've had, even in hotels. And our own bathroom - score!

They have their own fuenta and the water is deliciously cold...no foot bath though, more's the pity!

The grass was newly mowed and the whole place just glows with rustic charm. 

The most amazing and welcoming hosts: Melisa Amaya Pena, Raul Merelas Valino, and the Boss, Raul's Gramma - Maria Enjamio Quintela

Raul speaks excellent English, but let me practice some of my haulting Spanish, and didn't even laugh! And, Maria makes the most delicious and powerful after dinner sipping drink you will ever taste! 

From the moment we arrived, through a truly delightful meal, we felt so very welcome! We're glad that there was no room in Castaneda, we like this place so much better! Gracias Maria, Raul and Melisa.

 

Day 25 - to Palas de Rie

Well, all of the books, Internet columns, etc., said that when you pass Sarria, the camino gets more congested. We were hoping that we were still a week ahead of the summer crunch, and who knows, perhaps we are. 

However, as Sarria is 112 km from Santiago, and the last start point you can take and still qualify for your certificate, the night after Sarria is, dare I say it, littered with first nighters. Now, good on them for undertaking the walk at all, but the pilgrims we met today, those we've shared the path with for the last 3 weeks had the same thing to say...the first nighters really have no idea how to unpack efficiently, repack quietly, use their space (and not everyone else's) and that turning on your halogen light when you come in and everyone else is already sleeping is just not done! Ah well, as we walked on today, and knew that we'd be stepping into our destination town well ahead of the masses, we just smiled. Steve and Becky from Essex, England, had the same idea as us...no albergues tonight...a pension or a hotel!

Barb and I have already booked into a pension...2 beds, our own bathroom AND a tub...hip tub that it is, soaking our feet is a treat.

So the day...yet again, view after view that just makes you feel so glad to be here.

Beautiful, lovely...should be on a postcard!

Part of the trail today, a skinny bit of space between a rock wall and a green wall...had to snap a pix once we'd made it through.

Not a lot of pix today...just know that we are still loving every minute of it!

Day 24 - to Portomarin

We've talked about hopscotching about with different people and couples, well, one of the couples that we've passed, they've passed us, we've passed again and so on for about a week, are Angelina and Joun from Portugal. They are walking the camino for their 40th anniversary...way cool. Yo...Jo and Beth...hint, hint, hint!

Salute!

So, this morning, off to a great start, about the usual time, lovely clear skies and the path was lite by a full silvery moon...about as poetic as a morning is allowed to be. But, much to our shagrin, other than a few farmers getting their cows to the milking sheds, NOTHING else was open, until a long 7.5 km when the cutest bar at Morgade welcomed us with the biggest cups of coffee we've had yet. And toast of course!

Our next quick stop, Mercadoiro,was at a bar that was Ina house that was constructed 300 years ago. The owners have kept all the best features, but added thoroughly modern plumbing and kitchen facilities...best almond cake yet! AND, just half a km later well, a pix is worth a thousand words...

Double digits!!!!!

It was only another 5 km to our stop for the day, and the last 5 km were more of what we'd enjoyed all day, absolutely mind blowing scenery. Barb says that its the most beautiful part so far, and there have been some other amazing views, so that is saying a lot.

Arriving in Portomarin, we were faced with a very long bridge over the incredibly swollen Rio Mino...not as swollen as the Bow is right now, but Spain has been having its own issues with higher than average rainfall.

After the bridge...46 steep stairs, which is the ONLY way into the city. 

Climb those after a full day hiking!

The albergue where we are staying; however, was worth the climb. 

The view from our very own deck! Life is good!

 

 

Day 23 - through Sarria to Barbadelo

With a name like Barbadelo, well..we HAD to stay here. And it was another great decision, the albergue here is beautiful.

But first...the day's journey. Lillian and Eric were such wonderful volunteer hosts, they made us feel right at home last night. At 6:40, we were off and it would be a morning of ups, a few nice flats and scenery that was totally overwhelming...through dense trees then opening up into wide rolling vistas. But, it was 7 km to coffee. Ah well, it likely tasted even better because we were anticipating it so.

 A beautiful fountain, take a rest and picnic spot. No coffee however!

 

Before coffee even, we passed the 125 km marker

Just after Furela, there's a little town called Pintin where we once again ran into Marie and Stephanie, two sweet young girls from the U.S. who we've hopscotched along the trail with since Rabanal. We may get up a little earlier and get a jump on the trail, but their young legs overtake us before too long.

Stephanie, Barb, Marie and me

Then it was through Sarria, grab a stamp at a bar and keep going. It's a festival Sunday and the streets were already teeming, and the night promised to be louder than we've become used to. By the way, out of Sarria, it's straight UP yet again. But we pushed the 5 km and, much to our delight, stopped at one of the nicest albergues yet! Ahhhhh, showers and beds and a chance to take off the pack and the boots for at least 15 hours!!!!

Our home for the night

 

Day 22 - as days go, this one was a downer!

We were told that we had reached the top of the last mountain when we reached O Cebreiro...ha! After going up a little more, which was fine, and then level and slightly down, there we were facing another hill, and not a little one...a hill that had us begging for the bar at the first town (4km) to be open and serving coffee. No such luck! By the time we had huffed through another 2km to Hospital da Condesa, the doors were open and the coffee was hot, fresh and delicious with a side of toast and jam..hey, we worked hard already, we needed the toast!

The view of today's start, taken last night 

Thinking, okay, now for a little flat before the downward grade that we knew was coming, we were stunned, and almost ready to cry, when we faced yet more up,  and steep up at that to Alto do Poio. The name of the place should have been a dead giveaway, but who was really paying attention? Obviously, not us! 

Grain fields,vineyards and fields of poppies have given way to patchwork field of grazing pasture. Cows, sheep, goats and German Shepherds abound

Once we were at the 17 km point, at Biduedo, the real hard part began. It was 7 more km to Triacastela and most of the +650 metre vertical drop comes in the last 5 km - we are talking slow, short steps and many of them. Needless to say, when shade presented itself, we stopped and took total advantage.

The albergue we are staying at here in Triacastela is rustic, very well appointed and just a delight. We will, no doubt, sleep like little logs tonight! We hope..............

The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. You had to stop to look; however, so you didn't fall over or trip or step in 'something'

Day 21 - journey to the top...O Cebreiro

Beautiful cool day today, and just what was needed for what was to be the most difficult climb so far...not exaggerating a bit...seriously vertical!

But first, the morning coffee, and this time toast and jam, just because sometimes a change is as good as a rest. That's what we told ourselves, anyway!

The best thing about coffee this morning...

The sign on the wall! Just 12 minutes after coffee...we broke 175 km to Santiago!!!

And the ascent began, not so bad at first, but for about 7 km, we were walking beside a roadway, and on pavement...harder by double than walking on a forgiving path.

We arrived at Las Herrerias, where there is a handsome Spanish gentleman who runs a string of horses...Barb has been showing signs of Equine D.T.s for the last few days, so we chatted with him and he was fully booked for the last 8 km to O Cerbreiro, but said that if we walked to La Faba (by the way the steepest 4km) he'd meet us at the bar there and we could make the last 4 km on horseback...Barb was in heaven, and the two Airdrie Rodeo Girls were riding again! Barb's Helena and my Gabiello were heaven sent and a delight.

Riding with full pack was easy...mounting required a little assistance

Yes, I put on a helmet, too, but it really didn't got with the outfit....

This is a view of the valley (which we walked up 23 km and rode 4 km) it goes on  far as the eye an see

Call it wanting the FULL camino experience, as riding horseback is a totally acceptable way to make the trek. In fact, if you arrive at the Santiago Cathedral before 10:30 a.m., you can bring your horse in for a blessing, too! Ha, who knew?

At the top...albergue here we come! Thank you Pedro for taking the pix!

An Italian gentleman (Lorenzo from Sicily) who we have met a few times along the way, just came in and said he knew we were here before he came in the dorm because he recognized my laugh...he says I'm the happiest pilgrim he's met...go figure!

Adios for now...we are doing a little laundry and then it's supper...we are starved!

Had to head to a bar, limited wifi here...and of all the gin joints in all the world, who walks into ours...Olaf and Jeff, two B.C. men we've leapfrogged with since our second day on the trail. Beers are in order...except I'm having wine!

Me, Jeff, Barb and Olaf...us with the B.C. boys

Day 20 - and Villafranca del Bierzo

A wonderful day for walking...clear skies, slight breeze and, after an extra half hour sleep in the hotel  room! Well...perfection!

Walking by vineyards at 7:30 in the morning...pinch us!

Planning is one thing, but when we'd hit Cacabelos, our original destination, it was only 11:00 and we couldn't believe we'd walked 20km already...so, we ordered our egg n patata pie (a mid-morning treat that we've come to love almost as much as the 8:00ish coffee) and had a discussion.

The bar we stopped at in Cacabelos

Just too cute!

We decided to push on the next 8 km to the absolutely gorgeous little town of Villafranca del Bierzo.

Yes...that was us who clicked off 28 km like we've been doing it for, oh let's say 20 days now...grin!

This is the view from our deck.

More castles...

On the whole, it's hard work on the camino, satisfying, but tough...though, we aren't completely roughing it. Last night we ate like royalty, white table cloths, linen napkins, and tonight, surprise, surprise, a little gem of a restaurant with amazing food, great wine, and linen napkins, too! 

Roughing it never tasted so good.